so i bought my 92 240sx for 350$ from a guy who was hurting for money he said that he could not get the car in gear...so after a little inspection i find that he had left the automatic tranny pilot bushing in the engine and after a little more research came to find out that the original ka24de that was in the car had been blown and he had swapped to the engine that is in it now...so when i go to fit the tranny in the car (because it was not in when i got it) i decided to go ahead and swap out the master and slave cylinder which leads to my question why is my clutch pedal not holding any pressure... if it helps i believe that it was an automatic ka before and have heard that it may have the wrong bolts for the flywheel which i guess are too short
well assuming the master and slave are new and not blown or leaking internaly,make sure you have all the air out of the line's, and did you bench bleed down the master and slave? if not you can bleed them down on the car it just can sometimes take a while befor you get the air out if you dont have a vac. bleeder.
(07-17-2010 07:42 AM)art Wrote: [ -> ]well assuming the master and slave are new and not blown or leaking internaly,make sure you have all the air out of the line's, and did you bench bleed down the master and slave? if not you can bleed them down on the car it just can sometimes take a while befor you get the air out if you dont have a vac. bleeder.
yea i have bench bled them numerous times and replaced the lines going to the master and slave lol its to the point where i just want to buy another 240 because of all the stuff that WAS ghetto'd on it but dont have the money so im slowly tryin to deghetto it lol
argg i hate that finding and ungettoing crap LOL, i just re-read your post and yes the auto flexplate bolts are shorter you need the manual bolts for the fly wheel, that wont cause the no pressure problem but you really dont want to go there with the problems the A/T bolts will cause, but am if im reading and understanding that the peddle will hold pressure for a bit then it will just have a loss in pressure? if you are sure you have all air out of the system you might just have a bad master or slave I cant even tell you how many times I have gotten "new" masters and slaves and they have been junk right ot of the box, it seems to happen more with duralast brand there just not quality parts LOL but also make sure your clutch bolts are torqued to 18-19ft lbs and the flywheels bolts are lock tighted and get them as thight as you can, there it a tq. number for them i just cant remember it off the top of my head.
hydraulic leak.
there is fluid leaking/line puncture somewhere between the slave and master.
well do you get a firm pedal, then it goes away?
did you bleed the dampener or remove it?
(07-18-2010 07:02 PM)MURPHY Wrote: [ -> ]hydraulic leak.
there is fluid leaking/line puncture somewhere between the slave and master.
well do you get a firm pedal, then it goes away?
did you bleed the dampener or remove it?
there's a damn good point, remove the the dampener those things are nothing but trouble LOL
(07-19-2010 06:53 AM)art Wrote: [ -> ] (07-18-2010 07:02 PM)MURPHY Wrote: [ -> ]hydraulic leak.
there is fluid leaking/line puncture somewhere between the slave and master.
well do you get a firm pedal, then it goes away?
did you bleed the dampener or remove it?
there's a damn good point, remove the the dampener those things are nothing but trouble LOL
lol beat u guys to it my buddy when i was still living in florida told me that they were nothing but trouble and so we did away with it within the first week of having it
what part of FL? i just moved up here like a year and some change ago from st.pete.
You might want to eliminate the loop at the clutch line which is called the "Connector". The first thing I do when I work on a car is eliminate this section of the clutch line because it makes bleeding the clutch almost impossible even with a good vac. bleeder. I don't remember what the actual technical name for the section of tubing may be but below is a link to what it looks like. The section of the line actually softens the pedal, by removing it you gain a better feel of the clutch. I have done many clutch jobs on 240's and this "Loop" has always made bleeding the clutch impossible. I've always had to remove this section. If you want to retain this section I believe you will have to bleed the line at 2 points. One at the slave cyclinder and the other at the loop. The "Loop" section has a bleeder valve as well.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/240sx-parts..._3760.html
i hear alot about other people having issues with that dampener but i have NEVER had an issue with bleeding with it.... and i've probably went through 7 or 6 slave cylinders.... not much help i know lol i just wanted to say that.
i agree with them though. something is leaking, it helps to have someone push the pedal and you keep lookign for the leak