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Full Version: How to: Relocate Battery
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Biggamehit

NOTE: this was not really a write up i just took pictures. but i can turn it into one.. also don't put the battery on the drivers side. disrupts the weight distribution. however if you do so.. you can put a lighter battery in the box

ill take pictures of the way I hooked up/routed the power cable. technically the battery is not suppose to be on the driver side, but i wanted to try it... now im going to relocate it dead center inline with engine,tranny and diff.

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pics


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WestMarine: Battery Box= $13
WestMarine: dual insulated 14 ft 4guage cable= $80( can be had cheaper)
Lowes:Rubber/hard washers,1/2" Bolts,Nuts= $5-7
Auto Zone: battery Terminals, 70amp fuse, ground cable= $12

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if you don't have abs or hicas, this slot will be open.drill/poke a hole in it and insert your cable.the cable will come out along side of your ecu. if you would like, you can peel the ecu grommet back and insert the cable there also. no drilling in fire wall required

note: my car is very low and no rubbing at all with 17" wheels and 215 45 r17 tires
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(excuse the clutter, thats my turbo in that box :yumyumSmilie
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total of 4 mounting points with rubber spacers.

with in the off-white box you can drill anywhere, nothing is located there. however, when drilling holes 3 and 4 make sure that you don't drill into the antenna and small wires. all you have to do is apply a little force, and the antenna will flex easily

the Red boxes show my drill points

with in the blue box, there is a bolt already right there. what i did was take a wire wheel/drill combo and stripped the paint off to create perfect ground
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Note:

1) i didn't install an tie down inside of the box becuase my battery fills the case up, but i will squeeze one in when i relocate it again just to cover ALLLL points for very technical safety tech places. with the washers bolts and 4 points the box doesn't flex or move at all so that would pass tech inspections. but for peace of mind you can add additional tie down inside.

2) in the top right you see the speaker mount, that must be removed in order to drop the battery in..I have deleted them since i don't listen to the radio.

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meh... that's ghetto

for a much cleaner install...

run your power to a junction box on firewall (or wherever) and run what needs power too it. oh and you can also run the accessories to the alternator. plus, the battery wire looks cleaner running threw main engine harness gusset in firewall in my opinion

sorry if you don't like my opinion just trying to help

Biggamehit

im mean yea you could have kept it to yourself and or the next time you do one feel free to post it.

its not a show car

also "ghetto" battery boxes don't past tech inspections over 6 times since installation.
MURPHY Wrote:run your power to a junction box on firewall (or wherever) and run what needs power too it. oh and you can also run the accessories to the alternator. plus, the battery wire looks cleaner running threw main engine harness gusset in firewall in my opinion


this is the plan for mine once i do a wire tuck and clean up my harness. you can keep it low on the passenger shock tower.

but i've only seen one or two cars like this, just a HUGE PITA when the motor is still in.

on a side note, be carefull where you run that cable when going into the frame rails and around sheet metal. those edges will eventually wear through the insulation on the wire and short it out. when ever possible use rubber grommets or improvise by cutting some vacuum hose down the middle and running it where the power wire may be shorted.
^my silcoupe is just like how i posted

and if you cut into the upper engine harness grommet that works prefect... don't cut the harness tho
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